I had an old USB cable that was not i great shape. And one end was a USB C jack. I knew that such a jack would be tremendously useful when it comes to my hobbyist projects. Hence, I made one.
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This is how you can make one too.
Materials:
USB C-Male jack [This or this (note that you have to self solder. I do not recommend)
Solder the wire based on what colour arrangement you want them to be in. I chose red for +ve, black for -ve, green for data +ve and yellow for data -ve.
You may choose the same or put all reds if you want. Its your cable. Not mine!
Once you solder them you are done.
This is how it looked once ready!
(Disclaimer: This was a project originally intended to be for BMC supporters only. Since, it was ir-resistable, they allowed me to make it public and share it here also.)
The irony is that I do not recommend that you do this unless needed! Anyways, I hope that you enjoyed reading this post, feel free to support me by buying me a coffee.
When I first started streaming, I made a dual LED flasher circuit. Unfortunately, I forgot to save the recording of the stream. I decided to make it again and convert my LED statue sculpture into something very interesting.
(The full video recording of the stream is attached below)
The circuit is very simple and only uses a few parts. It can be made for under 4 dollars very easily.
Parts Needed:
BC547-NPN 2
LED (RED or GREEN or YELLOW) 2 [But in my case, I used 15. 14 as a tower in series and 1 externally]
Resistors- 1Kx2 , 10Kx2
Capacitors- 22uF x2
9V Power Supply x1
Wire
Optional parts:
(Soldering Version)
Proto-Board
Soldering Equipment
Rocker Switch
(Breadboard Version)
Breadboard x1
Jumper Wires
I used a highly modified version of a circuit that I found online. In my first stream, I made the circuit on the breadboard. But I made it permanent by soldering the circuit on a protoboard for a project.
The circuit is a dual LED flasher powered by two transistors.
This is the circuit. You can get the HQ scheme from the product card below.
Get It Here:
Since I combined the above circuit into a pre-existing LED Tower, I soldered it into a Vero board and made it permanent.
Now, you might say, Where is the second LED?
Well, I made a LED 2D Pyramid with 14 LEDs in Parallel.
I made it look like a triangle. But in 2d. It is a soldering task. I agree. But when lit. It looks very good.
The circuit for the same is
I used a long copper wire to connect all of the ground. The LED on the perf-board will make the box its enclosed in glow. But the structure will blink indipendently.
I lowered the voltage and took a photo of the structure in action.
For enclosing the circuit, I used a blank CCTV Circuit enclosure box. You may get one from the link below. (Please note. The link I am providing here is an affiliate link. I earn a small percent for every qualifying sale. That helps me run the channel also. When I get enough sum from my BMC, I will shift from affiliate links to official ones. Thank You!)
I also used a rocker switch in series with the battery cable to make it function.
And I powered the whole circuit with a 9 volt battery.
And closed the whole enclosure with the screws provided. And the whole project was complete. You may make a similar project also. If you do, tweet with the hashtag #ImadeitESC
Thank You for making and supporting and of course reading till here. Comments are appreciated.
My most recent project was to transfer music with the help of light. This is actually a part of a very large project.
Things that you will need!
LM386 audio amplifier chip
LED ( white or blue preffered)
Audio jack
Solar Panel
Capacitors: (50 uF (2), 1000uF (1))
Wire
Breadboard
Speaker.
3.3 volt and 5 volt power supply
Let’s start!
Step 1:
Here a peltier module image is used since a real solar panel was not available in fritzing.:) This amplifier is extremely easy to make and only costs about 1$ (if the components are purchased in bulk)
Step 2
Now we have to make the transmitter. It is a very simple voltage amplifier circuit that works with 3 volts. You can make the circuit by looking at the schematic below.
STEP 3: (Not mandatory)
You can also see the image below to get an idea of the circuit on a PCB. And done. Your wireless transmitter is ready. You can now make it and enjoy. Also see video below for further details. Link Of the video In-case you want be in the loop and want to know when a new video is uploaded SUBSCRIBE and also click the subscribe button in the home page to sign up and be notified every time a post is up!
You can now obtain the files for making a water detector at home yourself. This can be used for monitoring plants, animal water bowls, water pumps, etc.
You make this at your own risk though. Make sure that you do not use any kind of live voltages near your pet.
The circuit is a transistor based water detector which uses one NPN transistor and a few more complementary parts to achieve the task. This cicuit uses a low voltage potential on the sensor side which is safe for palnts and animals alike.
This device can be powered with a 9 volt battery.
The full component list is:
9 volt battery
BC547
Battery clip
PCB clad board
wire
And thats it. You spend less that Rs20 which is around $0.25 (or 25 cents)
If you make this, tag me on twitter and let me know!
So I have finally finished making the chip after 3, mostly successful attempts. So the thing is that the chip I made follows the principle of a real chip i.e. I mean that it uses transistors as its brain. It is a single transistor capacitor based IC. It is also called LB103 (3rd version). What it does is that it blinks the LED based on the voltage and the capacitance. What I did was that I used a capacitor of value 407 microfarad. What I found was that the chip was very bad at blinking the LED accurately. Even a change of 1 volt causes it to stop blinking for ever. Even with my very accurate (sarcasm) power supply, it was a blast trying to make it work. But I did it and recorded my adventure making and trying to use it. But I am going describe its construction here.
The materials I used were:
BC547 (NPN transistor)
Proto Board
Resistors
( I am assuming that you have most of the basic components such as a soldering iron and a lead roll.) Making the chip:
Step 1:
So I started with the smallest piece of protoboard I could cut using a knife. Then I cut of the base pin of the transistor. I did that as the base pin is not required for the configuration. Then I soldered the transistor in place. Then came the capacitor. Unfortunately I used a capacitor of the capacity 407. But if you are also going to attempt this, I sincerely suggest that you use a capacitor of value 100 or anything below 400 or a capacitor of capacity 1000. Also get a branded one mostly from Murata or any other established brand. Then I soldered the capacitor in place. In the first 2 iterations I used a defunct brand’s capacitor (capapower) and the chip was very accurate but the transistor was not. So it was still useless as it was equally inaccurate. This time I used some transistors from TI and the capacitor was inaccurate. But I somehow finally got it to work in the end. This amplifier is extremely easy to make and only costs about 1$ (if the components are purchased in bulk) Moving on, Then I needed to add the legs that made it look like a chip. Before that I would like to tell you that I made a huge mistake when cutting my PCB which will be highlighted by me in the video check it there. Due to which the chip’s legs were not aligned properly and it did not fit properly. For the legs I used 2 resistors of a type I never used. And then I finished preparing the legs. Then I finished the circuit and it was ready. Then came the problem I mentioned before. So I had to adjust the legs of my circuit and then It was ready for testing. During my test I noticed that the chip only worked with 12 volts and it stopped functioning with 13 volts. But I got to work and here it is: The circuit I used can be downloaded from the link below! With that this project-info ends. Link Of the video
You can also download the files from: Link for the files And I will also be uploading the gerber files of the PCB and the BOM file with which you can buy the components and also order my PCB of the chip which you can find in my site. (link is given above) Best of luck, Stay Safe and Have Fun! Meet you in my next post!.
For more than 2 years I have been dreaming to make my own RUBIK’s cube solving bot. Now, I have the materials and the tools to make it possible. There are 2 methods to make the bot solve a cube:
Push and twist method
Rotate side method.
The 1st method uses the least number of components possible. BUT it takes more time to solve and is more time consuming to code. So, I used the 2nd method instead where each side is moved individually. This is easier and any motor can be used. So I joined with my friend and started the bot. Incase you wish to buy these products, the links are given below.
Ice-cream sticks
Super Glue
Template: Link below!
We first took a bag of ice-cream sticks. Then we made a simple template and cut the pieces. If you wish to replicate the same, the file will be given below. Then we cut the necessary pieces out with the help of the template. Then we stuck them together (see fig:cb1). LINK to the template: Link To The File! Then we made it like a tube. See fig:cb2 Once we did the above step, we tried fitting it to the center piece and check if it was steady. See fig: cb3. Then we the same few steps listed above and made 6 of those tubes mentioned above. We also kep’t testing to see if each tube fits. See fig:cb4,cb5 Once we finished all of these steps pt1 of our bot was ready. You can move to to the next blog which will come soon so that you can complete making the cube solving robot. Please keep checking the main page so that you know when the next steps come.
This is my electrical and chemistry based project. Highly recommend that you don’t try this at home with out any safety equipment. Check video below. Click Here To View!
Now we used small electrodes with a fixed voltage. Adding higher amount of electrodes can get lethal. SO PLEASE DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME. Incase you want to make it for other purposes here are the items required:
A zinc nail
A copper rod or something made from copper
A 12 volt powersupply:
9 volt battery
a bottle
Salt
water
aquarium tubing
Let’s start!
you gather the components with wire, attach 1 wire to the copper rod and 1 wire to the zinc rod,
make 2 holes side by side on the bottle
gather some clear aquarium tubing
Make 1 small hole and 1 big hole in which the tube can fit.
now attach the tube and fix the tubing with some E6000 or something (not sponsored)
Into the second hole, push the wire and electrodes side by side.
make sure that the electrodes don’t touch each other.
Now give it power somewhere in between 9-12 volts.
before that add some salt water to it till the electrodes
VOILA!now that your generator is ready, if you keep a lit up match near the tube, the match should turn of. If not add more salt or water accordingly.
This is the very first electronics project that I made and uploaded to youtube. This project is a Remote Controller based motor driver. The video has the products needed.
Or if you want to go ultra cheap you can get a cheap car and salvage the parts from it Now for the instructions:
Take the receiver and solder 2 wires to the motor 1 / motor 2 socket
Use a multi-meter and a battery to find the positive and negative.
SOCIALL tip:
for seeing which connection is positive or negative, try placing the probes on the wire. If you don’t see a – sign it means that the polarity is correct else it is not correct.
See Image:
Now that you know which one is positive and negative, connect your motor accordingly.
Give it 3 volts with the help of a dual 1.5 volt battery holder. (pay attention to the polarity).
VOILA! Your motor circuit is ready.Pressing the button will run the motor. Troubleshooting!
if your motor does not run try checking the polarity of the battery and the motor.
Check if your transmitter has batteries installed.
Check if your board is working
Checking if your transmitter works with something else.
Check that there are no short circuits.
Clean the flux on the board.
if your motor still does not work you might need to replace the parts. Thank you For Reading!
Once we did the above step, we tried fitting it to the center piece and check if it was steady. See fig: cb3.
