DIY Electronics Projects Tools

How to set up an electronics lab

I sincerely request you to spend 5-10 minutes and read through this article fully. Thank you.

You probably saw a YouTube video on building robots or maybe even a friend of yours has a lab. You want one to to practice and make projects. How do you get going with it??

Well, if you search for videos on YouTube for setting up your own lab, you will for sure come across the EEVBlog video. ( There David goes over 2 types in 2 different videos. The actual version that goes for over 1K USD (80K INR) and another video where the overall cost goes to a price of around 400USD (32K INR) . Scary right? But not really.

No person who does electronics as a part-time hobby will want to spend as much money usually. For that amount in India atleast a low-end PC will be available.

You will also come across videos of that of BigClive (BigCliveDotCom) where he shows how you can buya simple soldering kit, a cheap soldering station and begin.)

But not all people will want to solder. Some may just want to build with breadboards while other will only want to solder. So what is the actual ideal setup?

Well, there is no ideal setup. It all comes down to liking, hobby, and requirement


When you start off with hobby projects, you will like a particular stream of electricity. It can be electronics, electrical, analog electronics, digital electronics and so on. You may prefer using 555 timers over Arduinos and vice versa.


Is your liking going to become a hobby or is it just a game? A hobby will be something you practice and like doing over extended periods of time. And in some cases, your hobby will become your profession.


Why do you need your Lab? Hobby or profession? Student or practice? Digital or Analog? Electronics or Electrincal?

Well all three of these have a huge impact on setting up your lab. My lab started out as a small torch light project which later went into 555s and then into MCUs. These show that mine is an electronics lab.

But yours may be different. And in some cases hobby labs don’t need huge amounts of investment based on the type you decide to practice.

In most cases, all types of electronics labs need similar equipment so it is rather difficult to choose.

Overall Requirements:

As a basic requirement, any lab for a student, hobbyist or a professional demand the nescessity for certain items.

  • A well-ventilated space
  • A well lit space
  • A flat surface such as a table
  • LED Lamp that can be clamped to the desk (Not must but recommended for effective use of the lab)

Also some basic tools:

  • A simple screw-driver set (cheapest ones will suffice for those doing it as a hobby)
  • A soldering iron (Not compulsory, but recommended for project type flexibility)
  • Some cloth gloves (to take things apart safely (not must))
  • A multimeter (must)

A wonderful example for a well lit space would be a desk that is present right next to a window with a decent LED Table Lamp. If you don’t have a table and are willing to shill out some more money, you can set up good workspaces like Chuck Hellebuyck and Alex from super make something (Alex has a very similar setup to that of Chuck Hellebuyck). Their labs would be:

CHEPs Desk (3D Printing Lab)

Of course, there are labs which are even better. But function is key. Does your lab fulfil the conditions of helping you complete projects? If yes, automatically, your lab is good.

If you are a student or a person who would like to practice electronics as a hobby again after many years:

Rough Budget: 10$ to 40$ (600 INR to 4000 INR)

Just get your hands on a basic electronics kit from any purveyor and just start out. Make sure that kit comes with n number of LEDs and a breadboard. Do not settle for the snap-circuits. Get a kit that comes with a breadboard, some transistors, many LEDs, maybe even a few buzzers and motors. As a student your requirement for an oscilloscope is minimal. The same also applies for function generators. Yes, oscilloscopes make life easier by helping you view waveforms easily, but there is simply no requirement at that stage.

Also as a student, if in college, you will have access to college tools. So you can akways make your hobby project on a breadboard and take it to your lab and test it there.

It is also known that students are known for living on the tightest of budgets. So unnecessary expenses must be avoided. Just purchase a simple kit, prototype projects and make your imagination take over you.

Some basic things I would recommend you get would be:

  • Breadboard kit (Must include basic transistors{ BC54, BC557, 2N2222A, 2N3904, 2N3906), resistors {1K, 10K, 100K, 22K, 47K, 1E, 10E, 100E, 47E, 22E, 220E, 470E, 670E} , capacitors {1uf, 10uf, 100uf, 22uf, 47uf, 1pf, 100pf, 102pf, 104pf, 22pf} , solderless breadboard, jumper wires { Male to male, Male to Female, Female to Female}, Breadboard power-supply board/9V battery clips, LEDs (3MM or 5MM ones) , 555 and 556 Timers, a small piezo buzzer, Potentiometer (1K, 10K, 10E} , Breadboard Switches (Push type))
  • Jumper Wires
  • 9V Batteries
  • A simple Soldering Iron
  • THT Through hole pad boards (PCB Board/Vero Boards)
  • multimeter

These are more than enough for you to get back into your hobby and learn also. Even though some creators mention that cheaping out on multi-meters is not safe, I’d strongly disagree for such simple projects. All that you would use it for would be measuring DC voltages under 9V which is extremely safe to touch.

When it comes to storage of your projects and components, you can use the box your kit came with. You don’t have to shill out on project boxes and enclosures and sorters. That can be done one you have realized that practical electronics is your hobby.

As a student and hobbyist, you can always go in-depth once you realize which part of electricity and electronics you like.

Also understand that resistors, capacitors etc. will be recurring expenses since you will need to replace them at some point. So if you are in a budgeting system, keep some money away for purchasing more.

When it comes to purchasing all of the parts mentioned above, as a student, you can rely on just Amazon since most parts mentioned above are available. But you will get better choices and prices from dedicated suppliers such as DigiKey.

Also do not spend money on a 3D Printer. It needs a bit of investment which is not necessary as a student. You can rely on Communities and college printers for simple level prototyping. Also schools in India that have Atal Tinkering Labs have them which can also be used by you if you are a student of the institution..

As a full on hobbyist:

Rough Budget: 200-800 USD (5000INR to `30K INR)

As a full on hobbyist, you don’t have to worry about anything. But yes, the above mentioned factors do apply.

But I would recommend that you add a few things too:

  • All component types (THT) { LEDs, Capacitors, Resistors, Transistors, MOSFETs,, Inductors etc.)
  • Basic MCUs (Arduinos, RPI Picos’, ATTiny 85 and so on)
  • A good temperature control soldering station/iron (TS80, TS100, Solderon/Hakko 938 etc.)
  • Good soldering accessories such as helping hands, lead, liquid flux and more)
  • Wires of all types and common guages (24 guage, stranded and un-stranded, Jumper wires of all types)
  • A simple Power supply (variable is not necessary since based on your hobby of choice, its necessity is justified)
  • Various breadboards
  • Multiple sizes of vero boards
  • Basic tools such as pliers, wire cutters, wire insulator removers etc.
  • motors etc. of all kinds
  • Some basic sensors and chips such as timers and so on
  • 555s, 556s, LM386, LM358, UA741s etc (OP-Amps and amplifier (sound){Its necessity is justified based on choice)
  • Oscilloscope and function generator (Not compulsory)
  • A good branded multi-meter form Mastech or Uni-T
  • A very high quality component sorter (Similar to the ones made by Alkon in india).
  • 3D Printer (very useful for quick prototyping and enclosure designing. Not must) {Any Prusa or Ender is recommended}

More components will get added or removed based on the hobby you decide to pursue. Analog electronics won’t need MCUs so you will not have a need to purchase them and vice versa.

Also, a simple oscilloscope and function generator is more than enough. The kit type or the USB type will suffice. You don’t need a full fledged LCD high end oscilloscope like the ones made by keysight since its demand may not be fulfilled. But if you feel that you need high-end ones, you may invest in one since it will always pay back for itself.

Also get a good quality work bench since a good desk and chair will pay back too with increased efficiency.

An honorable mention is also that your hobby can and may and will become your primary source of money if determined. But dedication is always necessary for this

My own lab does not have an oscilloscope and function generator since most of the projects I make can be analyzed and debugged with the help of a multimeter. But it will always be useful.

When it comes to purchasing these parts, you can buy them from dedicated suppliers like DigiKey and more. These dedicated suppliers make it easy since buying parts in bulk will be cheap and easy.

A professional grade lab:

Budget: 1000-3000USD (20K to 100K INR)

For setting up such a lab, I would just suggest that you refer to EEVBlog’s video on the subject since it has all details necessary. But remember that the budget will be high.

Also recommended would be a 3D Printer since it will truly help with quick-turn prototyping. A Prusa printer is best if you have the budget

Even though the video maybe a 11 years old, it is still highly relevant since electronics is a field where things don’t change fast with exceptions like technologies which include 5G and more.

Parts can either be purchased from EBay if you are ok with it or stick to reputed suppliers like DigiKey (worldwide), Farnell (UK)

But do understand that for a professional lab, even other necessities based on which field of electronics you follow, will become a must. But I cannot mention all of them since it will be a never ending flowchart of variables.

If you are a parent who is reading this, since you decided to help your child, please understand two things.

  1. If your child showed this article to you, please analyse your child’s potential and budgets and help them with the subject. Since as I mentioned above, a hobby can and will become a profession if determined.
  2. Please understand that this is a very costly hobby and will need some funding. So, feel free to plan you financials as such.

But I sincerely request you to never deny your child this beautiful technological hobby. It will help their IQ Increase while making them more skilled which will make them different from their peers and counter-parts.

The budgets I mention above are with respect to 2022 and are subject to change based on inflation, costs, shortages, manufacturing options and more.

Some more points will be added as time passes too.

If you found this post to be useful, please feel free to share it and if you have any queries, do comment below. Also, feel free to share a picture of your lab on twitter and tag #mylabesc and I will try my best to respond to all comments and tweets.

Honorable Mentions:

  1. TheGeekPub Lab (Hobby grade lab)
  2. Alex Gyver’s Lab (Hobby grade)
  3. EEVBlog lab (Professional grade)
  4. Dalibor Farny Lab (Professional grade lab)
  5. GreatScott! ‘s lab (Professional grade lab)

Thank You for reading this!


The reason why I wrote this page is because I has difficulty when I began due to overwhelming cos projections and confusions; And I sincerely hope that others do not get restrained because of this.


DIY Electronics Projects

DIY YouTube Subscriber Counter with LCD and ESP8266

Please read this article fully!!

This article is an extension to the recent KARO Episode where I showed how I made the YT Subscriber counter.

With some extra details such as files and dimensions and full parts list, even other can replicate it. PS, This will also be available as a kit for purchase. Be the first to pre-order it so that you don’t miss out!!)

As of now, it has abilities to hold a rechargeable battery, but I did not install it due to size constraints.

The base covering piece is in my case a piece of Ply. But the kit will come with some pure wood that will cover its base.

The kit variant will also come with WiFi Manager inbuilt, so you don’t have to code! Best for those who lik no-code solutions. And best part, everything for under 20USD!!!! The people to pre-order it first will get their kits/assembled devices based on choosing by a specified time. Also, this costs 10 times lesser than other counters in the market and also comes with life-time support since, once released, the code will be made open-source right here!

Well, if you feel like making it on your own, you may. The code and files will be available below. But I would appreciate it if you could take a look at the kit too, since that will also support my lab.

Want to purchase this as a kit or assembled piece?? Click the button below to be redirected to pre-order!!

The Project!


  • LCD 16*2
  • I2C Backpack for LCD
  • Wires
  • HeatShrink
  • ESP8266/NodeMCU boards
  • TP4056 with USB C
  • Wood
  • 3D Printed Parts

Real TIme assembly video:

It can also be noted that a cradle was also made so that the device can be wall mounted. All parts can be 3D-Printed. But the base alone is made out of wood since it provides a beautiful accent.

The code that will be given below need all credentials to be manually written unlike that of the kit. The Kit will need a one time no-code setup. The code for that and any other changes will be made available once the kits start shipping out

Hand-Coded Code:

//Special Thanks to Brian Lough for creating the wonderful YoutubeAPI library which ended up being the base of this code
//Code modified to work as a subscriber counting devcie by ESCcrasci from
//Replace the SSID, PWD, API KEY and CHANNEL ID below for smooth running.
//Works with a 16*2 LCD with I2C
//WIll soon be made available as a kit with a one time no-code system. Feel free to follow me on twitter to be notified when that happens! @ESCcrasci

#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>
#include <WiFiClientSecure.h>
#include <YoutubeApi.h>
#include <ArduinoJson.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>
#include <Wire.h>
LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 16, 2);

//------- Replace the following! ------
char ssid[] = "xxxx";       // your network SSID (name)
char password[] = "xxxxxxx";  // your network key
#define API_KEY "ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ"  // your google apps API Token
#define CHANNEL_ID "AAAAAAA" // makes up the url of channel
//------- ---------------------- ------

WiFiClientSecure client;
YoutubeApi api(API_KEY, client);

unsigned long timeBetweenRequests = 1000;
unsigned long nextRunTime;

// #define subscriberCount String

long subs = 0;

void setup() {

   Wire.begin(5, 4);

  // Set WiFi to station mode and disconnect from an AP if it was Previously
  // connected

  // Attempt to connect to Wifi network:
  Serial.print("Connecting Wifi: ");
  WiFi.begin(ssid, password);
  while (WiFi.status() != WL_CONNECTED) {
  Serial.println("WiFi connected");
  Serial.println("IP address: ");
  IPAddress ip = WiFi.localIP();

  // Required if you are using ESP8266 V2.5 or above

  // If you want to enable some extra debugging
  api._debug = true;

void loop() {

  lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
  if (millis() > nextRunTime)  {
      lcd.println("Subscriber Count:");

    nextRunTime = millis() + timeBetweenRequests;

3D Printable FIles and dimensions for wood:

FILES: (Are to be downloaded from Printables as linked below)

Download from here:

Base wood piece must be of 8.4*4*0.5 cm (L*B*H)

Also, the wood can be left as such as I did or be stained. The assembled version will come with a beautifully finished base piece and stand. The kit will come with an unfinished piece of wood that you can finish yourself!

This project will again be updated once the kit version and assembled version start to ship with no code setup features. So, stay tuned!!

Thank You for reading so far!


(lab-man ESCcrasci)

DIY Electronics Extras Projects

How I made my USB C jack longer!

So, Why did I even have to do this?

I had an old USB cable that was not i great shape. And one end was a USB C jack. I knew that such a jack would be tremendously useful when it comes to my hobbyist projects. Hence, I made one.

[aiovg_video id=347]

This is how you can make one too.


  • USB C-Male jack [This or this (note that you have to self solder. I do not recommend)
  • 24 guage wire- This
  • Soldering station+flux+lead – Read more here
  • Helping Hand (not compulsory though!)

So lets start.

Solder the wire based on what colour arrangement you want them to be in. I chose red for +ve, black for -ve, green for data +ve and yellow for data -ve.

You may choose the same or put all reds if you want. Its your cable. Not mine!

Once you solder them you are done.

This is how it looked once ready!

(Disclaimer: This was a project originally intended to be for BMC supporters only. Since, it was ir-resistable, they allowed me to make it public and share it here also.)

The irony is that I do not recommend that you do this unless needed! Anyways, I hope that you enjoyed reading this post, feel free to support me by buying me a coffee.

Thank You!

DIY Electronics Projects

How I re-made the very circuit I made LIVE!


When I first started streaming, I made a dual LED flasher circuit. Unfortunately, I forgot to save the recording of the stream. I decided to make it again and convert my LED statue sculpture into something very interesting.

(The full video recording of the stream is attached below)

The circuit is very simple and only uses a few parts. It can be made for under 4 dollars very easily.

Parts Needed:

  • BC547-NPN 2
  • LED (RED or GREEN or YELLOW) 2 [But in my case, I used 15. 14 as a tower in series and 1 externally]
  • Resistors- 1Kx2 , 10Kx2
  • Capacitors- 22uF x2
  • 9V Power Supply x1
  • Wire

Optional parts:

(Soldering Version)

  • Proto-Board
  • Soldering Equipment
  • Rocker Switch

(Breadboard Version)

  • Breadboard x1
  • Jumper Wires

I used a highly modified version of a circuit that I found online. In my first stream, I made the circuit on the breadboard. But I made it permanent by soldering the circuit on a protoboard for a project.

The circuit is a dual LED flasher powered by two transistors.

This is the circuit. You can get the HQ scheme from the product card below.

Get It Here:

Since I combined the above circuit into a pre-existing LED Tower, I soldered it into a Vero board and made it permanent.

Now, you might say, Where is the second LED?

Well, I made a LED 2D Pyramid with 14 LEDs in Parallel.

I made it look like a triangle. But in 2d. It is a soldering task. I agree. But when lit. It looks very good.

The circuit for the same is

I used a long copper wire to connect all of the ground. The LED on the perf-board will make the box its enclosed in glow. But the structure will blink indipendently.

I lowered the voltage and took a photo of the structure in action.

For enclosing the circuit, I used a blank CCTV Circuit enclosure box. You may get one from the link below. (Please note. The link I am providing here is an affiliate link. I earn a small percent for every qualifying sale. That helps me run the channel also. When I get enough sum from my BMC, I will shift from affiliate links to official ones. Thank You!)

I also used a rocker switch in series with the battery cable to make it function.

And I powered the whole circuit with a 9 volt battery.

And closed the whole enclosure with the screws provided. And the whole project was complete. You may make a similar project also. If you do, tweet with the hashtag #ImadeitESC

Thank You for making and supporting and of course reading till here. Comments are appreciated.

Project made for & by

Atul R

ESC labs

DIY Electronics Projects

This is how you can transmit music with LIGHT!

My most recent project was to transfer music with the help of light. This is actually a part of a very large project.

Things that you will need!

  1. LM386 audio amplifier chip
  2. LED ( white or blue preffered)
  3. Audio jack
  4. Solar Panel
  5. Capacitors: (50 uF (2), 1000uF (1))
  6. Wire
  7. Breadboard
  8. Speaker.
  9. 3.3 volt and 5 volt power supply

Let’s start!

Step 1:

 Sorry, Img not available
Here a peltier module image is used since a real solar panel was not available in fritzing.:)
This amplifier is extremely easy to make and only costs about 1$ (if the components are purchased in bulk)

Step 2

Now we have to make the transmitter. It is a very simple voltage amplifier circuit that works with 3 volts. You can make the circuit by looking at the schematic below.
 Sorry, Img not available

STEP 3: (Not mandatory)

You can also see the image below to get an idea of the circuit on a PCB.
 Sorry, Img not available
And done. Your wireless transmitter is ready. You can now make it and enjoy. Also see video below for further details.
Link Of the video
In-case you want be in the loop and want to know when a new video is uploaded SUBSCRIBE and also click the subscribe button in the home page to sign up and be notified every time a post is up!

DIY Electronics Projects

This is how you make your own water detector today! (files only)

You can now obtain the files for making a water detector at home yourself. This can be used for monitoring plants, animal water bowls, water pumps, etc.

You make this at your own risk though. Make sure that you do not use any kind of live voltages near your pet.

The circuit is a transistor based water detector which uses one NPN transistor and a few more complementary parts to achieve the task. This cicuit uses a low voltage potential on the sensor side which is safe for palnts and animals alike.

This device can be powered with a 9 volt battery.

The full component list is:

  • 9 volt battery
  • BC547
  • Battery clip
  • PCB clad board
  • wire

And thats it. You spend less that Rs20 which is around $0.25 (or 25 cents)

If you make this, tag me on twitter and let me know!

All the best!

The files can be downladed by clicking

DIY Electronics Projects

How to make your own IC! (Integrated Circuit)

So I have finally finished making the chip after 3, mostly successful attempts.
So the thing is that the chip I made follows the principle of a real chip i.e. I mean that it uses transistors as its brain.
It is a single transistor capacitor based IC. It is also called LB103 (3rd version).
What it does is that it blinks the LED based on the voltage and the capacitance. What I did was that I used a capacitor of value 407 microfarad. What I found was that the chip was very bad at blinking the LED accurately. Even a change of 1 volt causes it to stop blinking for ever. Even with my very accurate (sarcasm) power supply, it was a blast trying to make it work. But I did it and recorded my adventure making and trying to use it.
But I am going describe its construction here.

The materials I used were:

  1. BC547 (NPN transistor)
  2. Proto Board
  3. Resistors

( I am assuming that you have most of the basic components such as a soldering iron and a lead roll.)
Making the chip:

Step 1:

So I started with the smallest piece of protoboard I could cut using a knife. Then I cut of the base pin of the transistor. I did that as the base pin is not required for the configuration.
Then I soldered the transistor in place.
 Sorry, Img not available
Then came the capacitor. Unfortunately I used a capacitor of the capacity 407. But if you are also going to attempt this, I sincerely suggest that you use a capacitor of value 100 or anything below 400 or a capacitor of capacity 1000. Also get a branded one mostly from Murata or any other established brand. Then I soldered the capacitor in place. In the first 2 iterations I used a defunct brand’s capacitor (capapower) and the chip was very accurate but the transistor was not. So it was still useless as it was equally inaccurate. This time I used some transistors from TI and the capacitor was inaccurate. But I somehow finally got it to work in the end.
This amplifier is extremely easy to make and only costs about 1$ (if the components are purchased in bulk)
 Sorry, Img not available
Moving on,
Then I needed to add the legs that made it look like a chip. Before that I would like to tell you that I made a huge mistake when cutting my PCB which will be highlighted by me in the video check it there. Due to which the chip’s legs were not aligned properly and it did not fit properly.
For the legs I used 2 resistors of a type I never used. And then I finished preparing the legs.
 Sorry, Img not available
Then I finished the circuit and it was ready. Then came the problem I mentioned before. So I had to adjust the legs of my circuit and then It was ready for testing. During my test I noticed that the chip only worked with 12 volts and it stopped functioning with 13 volts. But I got to work and here it is:
 Sorry, Img not available Sorry, Img not available
The circuit I used can be downloaded from the link below!
With that this project-info ends.
Link Of the video

You can also download the files from:
Link for the files
And I will also be uploading the gerber files of the PCB and the BOM file with which you can buy the components and also order my PCB of the chip which you can find in my site. (link is given above)
Best of luck, Stay Safe and Have Fun!
Meet you in my next post!.

Arduino DIY Electronics Projects

How you can make your own cube solver-PT2

Now that we finished one part of the cube solver we move on to the second part where 75% of the project gets over. All of the popsicles together will form 6 pieces like this.
 Sorry, Img not available
Then when we fit all of them together the cube looked like this.
 Sorry, Img not available
Once that was over, we sanded all of the pieces.
 Sorry, Img not available
Quick tip for the people who feel/ and really are “broke”and/or cannot afford or have a sander:

  • Take a simple 10000RPM geared motor.
  • Get a fitting wheel for the motor.
  • Then get a 10000 grit sand paper piece and then paste it on the wheel with super glue.
  • Your simple electrical sander is ready.

So once we finished sanding we painted the product so that it remained beautiful.
 Sorry, Img not available
 Sorry, Img not available
Now we tried fitting the pieces to the cube with the center pieces removed. We also tried solving it to make sure that the cube moved fluidly.
(Special thanks to Kesshav A.V. for collaborating.)
 Sorry, Img not available
Then we made a simple output design so that we had a simple design of the output.
 Sorry, Img not available
Then we attached wheels to the rods . Once we did that we attached the motors. Then we added geared motor wheels. Then we attached all of the motors to the wheels. Then we cut 3 pieces of cardboard with the following dimensions
 Sorry, Img not available
In the next blog the circuit an the finishing will be covered along with the circuit diagram.
We are happy to say that pt3 will be the end of the making of the cube bot. Thank you for reading. Please keep checking this blog so that you know when pt3 is added.

Arduino DIY Electronics Projects

How you can make your own cube solver-PT1

For more than 2 years I have been dreaming to make my own RUBIK’s cube solving bot. Now, I have the materials and the tools to make it possible. There are 2 methods to make the bot solve a cube:

  • Push and twist method
  • Rotate side method.

The 1st method uses the least number of components possible. BUT it takes more time to solve and is more time consuming to code.
So, I used the 2nd method instead where each side is moved individually. This is easier and any motor can be used.
So I joined with my friend and started the bot.
Incase you wish to buy these products, the links are given below.

  • Ice-cream sticks
  • Super Glue
  • Template: Link below!

We first took a bag of ice-cream sticks. Then we made a simple template and cut the pieces. If you wish to replicate the same, the file will be given below. Then we cut the necessary pieces out with the help of the template. Then we stuck them together (see fig:cb1).
LINK to the template:
Link To The File!
 Sorry, Img not available
Then we made it like a tube. See fig:cb2
 Sorry, Img not availableOnce we did the above step, we tried fitting it to the center piece and check if it was steady. See fig: cb3.
 Sorry, Img not available
Then we the same few steps listed above and made 6 of those tubes mentioned above. We also kep’t testing to see if each tube fits. See fig:cb4,cb5
 Sorry, Img not available
 Sorry, Img not available
Once we finished all of these steps pt1 of our bot was ready.
You can move to to the next blog which will come soon so that you can complete making the cube solving robot. Please keep checking the main page so that you know when the next steps come.

DIY Electronics Projects

Make your own Hydrogen Generator for cheap!

This is my electrical and chemistry based project. Highly recommend that you don’t try this at home with out any safety equipment.
Check video below.
Click Here To View!

Now we used small electrodes with a fixed voltage. Adding higher amount of electrodes can get lethal. SO PLEASE DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME.
Incase you want to make it for other purposes here are the items required:

  1. A zinc nail
  2. A copper rod or something made from copper
  3. A 12 volt powersupply:
  4. 9 volt battery
  5. a bottle
  6. Salt
  7. water
  8. aquarium tubing

Let’s start!

  • you gather the components with wire, attach 1 wire to the copper rod and 1 wire to the zinc rod,
  • make 2 holes side by side on the bottle
  • gather some clear aquarium tubing
  • Make 1 small hole and 1 big hole in which the tube can fit.
  • now attach the tube and fix the tubing with some E6000 or something (not sponsored)
  • Into the second hole, push the wire and electrodes side by side.
  • make sure that the electrodes don’t touch each other.
  • Now give it power somewhere in between 9-12 volts.
  • before that add some salt water to it till the electrodes

VOILA!now that your generator is ready, if you keep a lit up match near the tube, the match should turn of. If not add more salt or water accordingly.